There would be 3 big seaside destinations in Northern Ireland. Bangor with its proximity to Belfast, Newcastle at the foot of the Mourne Mountains, and Portrush, the gateway to the Causeway Coast. We live in Bangor, have been to Newcastle countless times, but have no recollection of ever being to Portrush. So we made it our mission to go check out Portrush in the winter using a cheap stay we found on Wowcher.
Each year we would visit the Causeway Coast a bunch of times, I lived next door in Portstewart for 2-year, I would have bussed in weekly to Kelly’s/Lush on the outskirts, but I’ve never really been to Portrush itself. I’m guessing because we try to avoid the larger, more congested town centre, and instead opt to bypass it. “Surely you’ve been to Barry’s” Nope, I’ve never been to Barry’s.
Is Barry’s Amusements Open in Winter?
The big question! No, Barry’s Amusements is not open in the winter in Portrush. In fact, it’s not even called Barry’s anymore. Apparently Barry’s packed up back in 2019 only to reopen in 2022 as Curry’s Fun Park. The fun park is also seasonal closing for the winter (at least this year at the start of November (3rd November 2023) and will reopen again in the spring. So I have and will never get to experience Barry’s. I’m probably one of very few of my age that can say this in Northern Ireland.
How Much Are Hotels in Portrush in Winter?
We paid £65 for one night at the seafront Atlantic Hotel Portrush using a Wowcher coupon. I’m guessing around half the price of Portrush hotels during summer and peak tourist times (hotel list here). Which makes sense given how quiet tourism can be at this time of the year. Rooms fairly simple, views over the tip of the peninsula (we may have been given an upgrade) and there’s an on-site bar, the restaurant is closed during our stay, but breakfasts are still going (£10pp additional charge).
Is Portrush Busy in Winter?
We did visit Portrush on a Sunday so it was busy as expected even in winter and just a quick walk to the seafront car park find food trucks and burger vans, coffee and donuts, two ice cream vans. Mister Whilppy and Mister Softee, in winter, with frost literally on the ground beside them. “Ice Cold Drinks!” The cafes and restaurants that remain open during the winter are also fairly packed. All the arcades, probably close to 10 that we saw, are open. It’s more just the big tourist attractions like Barry’s that are closed and Waterworld seems to have been abandoned permanently.
Ramore Head
Portrush is a bit like a peninsula with a beach area on each side. In fact, “Portrush, or Port Rois in old Irish, is set on a mile-long peninsula sticking out into the Atlantic Ocean, with stunning blue flag beaches on either side and a historically significant rocky edge for its northern tip to explore”. The East Strand and the West Strand. We start by following the coast towards the west strand where there’s a rocky outcrop with fairly dramatic cliffside views and a birds eye over Portrush itself.
Portrush Harbour
This Ramore Head outcrop then connects to Portrush Harbour and the West Strand which is the busier side of town. The harbour itself also hosts some of the busier/better restaurants including the multi-level Ramore Restaurant which was packed out with Sunday diners. There’s also decent views from the 3rd floor Basalt but today it was closed. And so we just continued along the connecting West Strand (aka West Bay or Mill Strand) to find some grub.
West Strand Portrush
Continuing on from the Portrush Harbour is the West Strand beach, the busier beachside of Portrush with Barry’s (Curry’s) and the Portrush Train Station (map here), and Franco Manca Sourdough Pizza was opening the following day next to them. Even in the winter you have some lads surfing and paddling in the sea. The beach is flanked with a pedestrian/cycle promenade for as far as we followed and you could probably follow it up to Portstewart?
We otherwise only made it as far as Urban where we stopped off for lunch as we were still waiting for our 3PM check-in time. Bao buns, ribs, cocktail, and a neat double whisky. It was fine. We had planned on dinner with sunset views along the same stretch in the evening only the sun was already setting post-lunch so we were guaranteed to miss it. So we just walked the west strand for sunset then it’s a takeaway fish supper from Chequers and a tikka madras from Indian Ocean and back to the hotel. Paired with bottles of wine and views over the Ramore Peninsula.
East Strand Portrush
The following morning, after coffee, bickies and a swift hotel checkout, we follow the opposite side of the peninsula along the East Strand. We start out at Arcadia, a building formerly famous as a dancehall and ballroom, but now as a beach cafe and art gallery. We also check out the breakfast options only to find the cafe taken over by a yoga class. “It opens again around Easter” apparently. Right next to it is the east strand beach which stretches far into the distance.
The sand literally has frost and ice on it on this chilly winter day in Portrush but I’d much rather be there on a crisp winter morning than an overcast summer day. I think we got quite lucky with the weather. So the East Strand is roughly 2.5 km long, straddling the side of the Royal Portrush Golf Course, before merging with the Curran Strand and Whiterocks beach. I’m generally a beach Scrooge, but I find the strand fairly compact and easy to walk, so I was happy to keep going, before rushing back for the breakfast. So we planned to have breakfast at 55 Degrees North, with great views over Arcadia and the East Strand but arrived just past midday so it’s the lunch menu instead. The foods fine. Nice views
Weather in Portrush in Winter
In winter, Portrush, like much of Northern Ireland, experiences cool temperatures and increased rainfall. Average temperatures range from around 4 to 8 degrees Celsius (39 to 46 degrees Fahrenheit). It’s also one of the windier periods, with stronger gusts along the coast. Rainfall is relatively consistent throughout the year, so you can expect a mix of rainy and overcast days. It’s a good idea to dress warmly and be prepared for varied weather conditions if you plan to visit Portrush in winter.
